Price - $18.99 (375ml)
ABV - 45% (90 proof)
This white distillate from Flag Hill in Lee, NH has previously only been available at the on-premises tasting room. It's newly available in the state Outlet stores and is worth a try, even if it is a bit pricey.
I'm thrilled to see quality spirits being produced in-state, and Flag Hill has a reputation for doing it right - sourcing high-quality ingredients from local suppliers whenever possible. As the state's first distillery, founded in 2004, they've set the bar high and if this moonshine is any indication, they'll be adding a top shelf bourbon to the lineup very soon.
It's distilled from corn and malted barley and is clearly unaged. Handsomely packaged in a clear glass bottle styled after the classic moonshine jug - thumb handle and all - it really looks the part. This empty is sure to wind up in my wife's collection.
The nose is hot as one might expect, but less so than I expected. It smells of corn syrup and candy (red lollipops came immediately to mind) and seems uncommonly rich for something that hasn't seen any wood yet. There's a very subtle hint of burnt grain in there, too, but that's fairly typical.
The palate follows along nicely, but it's incredibly smooth. I don't like using that term because it's so frequently abused, but 'shine is often pretty harsh and this definitely is not. That burnt note is absent in the taste, which is nice, and it finishes shortly with rich, dusty grain. Some small-batch whites leave an unpleasant, lingering aftertaste but this is neat and clean. I can't imagine how tasty this will be after a few years in a good barrel.
I'd hold this up as one of the finer moonshines I've sampled, but at this price it ought to be. There are plenty of aged, quality bourbons in this same range. That being said, I'm happy to pay a bit more to support a local endeavour and I understand that getting into aged product is a very expensive proposition for the distillery. So, I'll choose to look at it as an investment in fine bourbon for the future.
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Price - $8.99 / 22oz
ABV - 5.9%
Black as coffee and nearly as opaque. There's loads of malt on the nose with just a hint of campfire. Rich roasted nuts and smoked bacon are forward on the tongue with cocoa and coffee slipping in at the end. Creamy and moderately bitter, also a vague acidity that seems a bit out of place. Overall, quite nice.
Bourbon Whiskey "With Natural Flavors"
Price - $64.99
ABV - 45% (90 proof)
According to the label, "...Southern Artisan Chocolate is combined with our famous Double Barreled Broubon in our secret process to produce this wonderful flavor experience."
On the nose, this is mostly classic cinnamon bourbon notes, fairly singular. I really have to search for the chocolate/cocoa essence - it's there but fleeting. It tastes sweet in a more full-bodied way than the typical bourbon, but sort of one-dimensional. There are vague hints of Tootsie Roll candy, but it's pretty hot on the tongue. I get the most impact from the finish, but still nothing to bowl you over. After working through this tasting I'm starting to get a little more impact on the nose, now that some of the alcohol has dissipated.
I think this really suffers from a lack of commitment. It's a decent enough bourbon to start with, but basic, simple. On its own, it shouldn't command more than a third of this price. With that in mind, I just don't understand why the chocolate is so very subtle and nuanced. I can see not wanting to go crazy like so many other flavored whiskies, but there's plenty of middle ground where this could have been hugely successful and actually worth sixty-five bucks.
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Irish Whiskey
Price - $79.99
ABV - 46% (92 proof)
Grain, grass, old book on the nose. Cereal, some pineapple, cinnamon, roasted hazelnut. A tightly integrated palate, to be sure. Cinnamon, hot cereal, and some dark fruit in the finish. Very rich, but fleeting. A nice step up from the 12y. It's a bit pricey, but in the past this expression has been very hard to come by, so enjoy it while you can.
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Reviews (and comparisons to previous releases) will be forthcoming - eventually.
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